by Chris Ladner


Neoprene is a modern miracle! There is no other fabric with all these qualities: it stretches, it's waterproof, it can be stitched or glued, it comes in a multitude of colours, it provides an insulating layer in wet environments, it's abrasion resistant and it is relatively inexpensive.

Neoprene was first discovered by none other than Jacques Cousteau. His pioneering efforts after the second world war created a material suitable for diving in the frigid depths of the ocean. This initial material is quite different from what we use today but the technology to produce it is similar.


How Neoprene is Made


Neoprene is often referred to as 'rubber' but it is actually a plastic. It begins as a powder called polychloroprene. To this base are added other ingredients that provide elasticity, foaming agents, cell size, colour (usually black), adhesion, bulk, plus other properties. This mixture is made into a dough which is plopped into a heated press. Under pressure and heat the mixture squishes out to make a sheet about 90" by 53". Sheet size varies according to the manufacturer and type of neoprene being produced. Jacques Cousteau's original method is still being used by a company called Rubatex in California, which also produces car door moldings for GM.

The final product is a foam block about 2\" thick. The top and bottom of the block will be either smooth skin or textured. The sheet is then cut horizontally to produce sheets anywhere from 1mm to 8mm thick. The top and the bottom sheets end up as N1S (Nylon one side), seen on many styles of wetsuits (if you look closely at N1S you will see the aluminum mold release dust sparkle). The middle layers get laminated with a variety of fabrics, most commonly stretch nylon. These fabric covered sheets are called N2S (nylon two sides). To streamline the sewing and cutting production you will often see bright colours on one side and black or navy on the other of N2S sheets.

N1S or 'skin' neoprene has the benefit of being the most stretchy, softest and warmest when wet. The drawback to N1S is that it does not wear well (both abrasion and seam integrity) and comes in limited colours (usually black). N2S has the benefit of being very durable, comes in lots of colours and holds stitching well. The disadvantage of N2S is reduced stretch, less functional as the outer fabric stays wet, and can be more expensive. You will often see N1S used in the body core panels of wetsuits with N2S in the bum, knees and arms.



Typical thickness for wetsuits are 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 6.5mm. Suits made from 1.5mm and 2mm are generally summer suits, T-shirts or shorts. Thinner suits will stretch more than thicker suits. With 3mm you get the balance of flexibility and warmth perfect for paddling. The Farmer John/Jane style (full leg and sleeveless) is fine for most paddling conditions. Wearing a Capilene Shirt layer under your suit with a microfleece on top and a good paddling jacket (with wrist cuffs) is plenty for paddling the BC Coast. In the depth of winter you may need to increase the neoprene thickness with a 2mm T-shirt and 2mm shorts. Using a neoprene hood or cap is vital for survival in immersion conditions. I always keep one in my cockpit bag or in the pocket of my PFD. Most hoods or caps you can wear pulled backed out of the way but are right there when you need them.


Suit Construction


Neoprene suits are constructed with three typical seam types: serged, blindstitched and Mausered/flatlock. Serged suits are typically less than 3mm thick and not glued. You will often find it on the more economical suits. The advantage of this seaming technique is mostly with the production process. A serged seam is quick to produce without much operator skill and no gluing is required. The drawbacks to a serged seam are: it can break easily (as stretch can be limited), it can unravel, it creates impressions on bare skin which can lead to rashes (wear something underneath it), it leaks and has limited life.

Blindstitched seams have the advantage of being totally waterproof (3mm or thicker), very stretchy and invisible from the outside (when stitched on the inside). These seams are glued first, creating the waterproofness. The blindstitch is best done on the nylon side and is often used with N1S. The stitch can be easily unravelled in one direction. If you break any stitch, use a drop of Krazy Glue to anchor the thread where it exits the material. The biggest drawback to a blindstitch is that it requires a highly skilled operator to not allow the needle to penetrate too deeply (ie. through the material).

The Mauser or flat lock seam is the most durable seam used in neoprene garment manufacturing. The advantage to Mausering is that often an exterior fabric tape is used where the stitches are embedded in the tape protecting them from abrasion. The seam will stretch with the fabric and will not unravel far if broken. This seam will usually outlast the material. Gluing makes the sewing easier and faster but it can not be glued as well and still be strong. Other than the cost of the machinery and high skill level of the operator the only other drawback is that there are forty stitch holes per inch.


How it works


Neoprene works best if it fits snug enough for you to breathe comfortably and tight enough to restrict water flowing through the suit. By trapping the water in the suit, your body warms it up. Neoprene is comprised of many small bubbles. This trapped air is the insulating factor. When trying on a suit, sit in a kayak to make sure you will be comfortable around the waist and can reach forward. Ankle zippers are an excellent feature for ease in taking the suit on and off. Center front zips are great for guys to pee. Women have the disadvantage of having to take off all the top layers to pee. Make sure all zippers use plastic slides. Metal slides corrode in saltwater. Velcro entry is used but can be awkward if not in combination with a zipper. Watch out for catching the velcro on your hair or fleece. Neoprene jackets can be too restrictive for most paddlers. Neoprene should be rinsed in freshwater and hung to dry in a warm place.


Wetsuit vs Drysuit


Wetsuits provide a waterproof barrier (other than the seam if not blindstitched) and are functional in all conditions. Drysuits used for paddling are usually of the fabric variety but also come in neoprene for diving. Drysuits are the ultimate hypothermia protection short of not being in those kinds of conditions in the first place. Yet this protection only works if the drysuit has no tears, the seals are intact and the zipper works properly. Zippers are the single component easily identified as a manufacturer's nemesis. The latex wrist seals come a close second. A good waterproof metal zipper will cost at wholesale, and with labour to install it, close to $150. They are incredibly difficult to install properly. Plastic drysuit zippers are a liability. They are not waterproof, even from the factory. They are far less expensive than metal tooth zippers and can be RF welded easily into a suit in one operation. Fabric drysuits are extremely dangerous if a latex seal breaks or if it is torn. Remember this when you get out of your kayak into a thorn bush. Once the suit fills with water you will not be able to swim. You will not sink but you will be EXTREMELY vulnerable at this point. In short I would stay away from drysuits for ocean paddling. Wetsuits work even if they are torn. They are less expensive and more attractive. They come in a variety of styles and prices. Just remember: in severe conditions, don't go out!

Neoprene is a marvel of modern technology. A good quality wetsuit will last a lifetime. Every paddler will ultimately acquire a wetsuit of some sort. It is one of the best investments in safety one can make, even if it is simply a neoprene cap or a pair of pogies.